Every so often, we post the most common Hedging FAQs of the previous 12 months. It gives a glimpse of what has been of most concern to our gardeners.
Last time, the top Hedging FAQs were as follows:
- What’s the best hedging plant if you have rabbits and/or deer?
- How do I encourage a hedge to fill in?
- When is the best time to trim or prune a hedge?
Hedging FAQs – The 2016 List
Two topics have risen up the chart due, primarily, to our decision to stop selling or promoting the plants in question – some time ago, we stopped supplying hedging plants as either bare roots or root balls and then, earlier this year, we started to recommend Western Red Cedar as an alternative to Leylandii. We’ll go through our reasons in the next two posts.
Our introduction of native farm hedging, though, has led to new questions, especially about how it can be used.
Finally, we’ve received many questions about both soil preparation and how to choose the right hedging plant.
The list of this year’s Hedging FAQs therefore concerns the following:
- The advantages of container grown hedging plants
- The Alternative to Leylandii
- Using Native Farm Hedging
- Preparing the soil for hedging plants
- Choosing the right hedging plant
2016 Hedging FAQs: Fertilisers
One question appeared on both the last and current lists of Hedging FAQs:
Does my newly planted hedge need feeding?
Providing you have followed the planting instructions and incorporated good compost in and around the plant, it won’t need anything else for a good nine months. Thereafter, an annual top dressing of general purpose, slow release granular feed in spring or early summer will keep it growing until it has reached its desired height.
Since then, we have posted more information on what is obviously a major topic. Last year, we looked at the question of winter feeding. The short answer is – it’s not necessary. We’ve also looked at feeding hedging plants in containers and, more recently, we explored the chemical composition of fertilisers and their relevance to hedging plants.