Lavenders are neither difficult to grow nor particularly fussy and their list of likes and dislikes are straightforward and easy to deliver. Most importantly, that little bit of TLC is extraordinarily beneficial to the display they offer in return. Those few extra minutes improving the soil or pruning with care are repaid with hours – days – of beauty and fragrance.
So, if you want to get the absolute best out of your lavender, follow these simple rules:
So, if your soil is not free draining (and imperative if you have been cursed with clay), dig in plenty of organic matter (mushroom compost is particularly effective) with some gravel to a depth of 30cm (1 foot). Planting on a mound will offer additional protection against waterlogging – if you are creating a lavender hedge, plant on a ridge.
If you are planting lavender in tubs or containers, use John Innes No. 3 with added grit – John Innes No. 2 will also do the job (but No.3 is better)
If you don’t know your soil’s pH, testing kits are readily available and inexpensive. Electronic (and reusable) soil testers giving a digital reading are available from under £20. Knowing your soil’s pH is useful not just for lavenders but for any plant you may wish to introduce into your garden – and well worth the effort
If you are growing it in a tub or container or if your soil is poor, apply a general purpose, slow-release feed early the following spring and again in late summer. A sprinkling of potash around the base will encourage flowering.
NB: Do not use manure or feeds with a high nitrogen content as plants will grow tall and weak
Lavenders in tubs or containers will require more frequent watering but don’t overdo it and always wait until the compost has dried out for a couple of days
Questions about anything here? Call the nursery on 01993 850979 or send us a message — advice is free.